What fault code ie P before and after the repair? Exactly what sensor was replaced? According to my software the EVAP monitor drive cycle for a Toyota Camry is to: Drive at 45 mph for 5 minutes steady then decelerate to 25 mph for 15 minutes then back to idle. Hello, I have been working on my drive cycle for weeks. Its just taking my catalytic converter a long time to be ready.
No engine light for the past miles. Recently had a thermostat replaced. I drove 55mph for miles…Speed to 70mph and cruise down to 15mph with no brakes 2 times. Toyota Solara V6. Please help, as I will take your advice for this upcoming weekend drive cycle. Cheers and Happy Holidays! First, I would double check that the proper thermostat was installed. For some vehicles, a precondition for the catalyst monitor to complete is for the vehicle to reach a particular temperature.
We have diagnosed and repaired defective or incorrect thermostat issues that have prevented readiness. Hey guys, what should be drive pattern for toyota solara l4? The cat monitor wont just come on.. After our technician drives the vehicle a pending P or P DTC appears in the system, indicating a potentially defective catalytic converter.
With that said, more often than not, the monitor is set without fault codes if you follow the procedure above. Just bought a used RAV4. Tried twice. No check engine codes. What is the drive cycle for RAV4? Then we drive in stop and go traffic to our local highway and drive for about 10 minutes at 60 mph. This process usually completes all monitors except EVAP after a few tries. For most Toyotas, we find that we do not need to follow the manufacturer specified drive cycle exactly.
I tried to do it to the best of my ability but still not clearing it. Some shops want to replace the catalytic converter at a hefty price that I can not afford. Some shops are telling me just to drive it. I have an expired tag and I do not know what else to do. Even the dealer says that it is not the catalytic converter if it is not showing P code.
We feel your pain. We have a Toyota Matrix here with an incomplete Catalyst monitored and are unable to drive cycle it successfully.
There are no pending or current P DTCs and the rear oxygen sensor is relatively flat most of the time. The first thing you should do is pay your DMV registration to prevent any further late penalties.
The TOP will allow you to drive the vehicle for another 60 days legally. On the bright side, we just completed a Toyota Solara , miles catalyst monitor. The customer drove the vehicle for hundreds of miles with no success.
So there is hope! I have a Toyota Corolla and just had the catalyst serviced and 02 sensor replaced and and 5 of the 7 emissions say ready, the catalyst and Evap are the ones left to say ready how do i run a proper drive cycle? For a Toyota Corolla if the catalyst is operating correctly, the catalyst monitor should run when driving at about 55mph for 10 minutes. What was done to service the catalyst? If your engine is not, then the drive cycle will not work.
I spent a month observing and investigating why my CAT monitor was not ready and root caused to the defective thermostat. I replaced the thermostat and went to pickup a spare tire. After 50 miles, all monitors were ready. Before that, I drove over miles following the manufacturer drive cycle many times without hope. The first requirement of the drive cycle is that your engine must be at the operating temperature F in my case.
All monitors, including the catalyst monitor, are dependents on sensors. In the case of the catalyst monitor, the O2 sensors are the key sensors. The most common reason the monitor for an incomplete catalytic converter is the nut behind the wheel. Seriously though, the way you drive is critical. The monitor requires certain conditions to run. By conditions I mean things like vehicle speed, the amount of throttle, and the combination of the two over time.
For instance, if you only drive around town, the catalyst monitor will never run, at least not on any car I know of. For instance, one car I worked on had to be driven at 50 MPH with a steady throttle for 10 minutes. Not only that, but 50 MPH is well under freeway speed when the freeway is clear enough to drive that far without having to slow down.
I threw on the hazards endured some dirty looks, but the monitor ran just like it should. There was nothing wrong with the car, it just required some ridiculous driving to run. Appreciate your advice. There has to be something blocking that monitor from running.
I doubt it is a bad converter as that would set a different code. There are a couple items that are monitored before the test will run. The engine coolant temperature is the primary one. Run the engine for a while and use a scan tool to see if the coolant temperature is coming up properly.
If the system thinks it's running cold the test won't run. After that the below text is the factory drive cycle. Note that you may need to drive this a few times and that just driving around will not set it. Also the driving at the steady speed means staying at 55 or so for the entire 10 minutes, if you slow below 40 or drive over 70 in the run it stops the test until the next engine start cycle.
Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure. Allow the vehicle to run at idle until warmed up. Drive at a steady speed between 40 and 70 MPH for 10 minutes. It s a good idea to stay in the middle of this range, so 55 MPH is optimal. I usually drive the vehicle to work 3 days per week now one way from home to company is about 13 miles, out of which 10 miles are highway with 65 MPH and the rest of are local with MPH. It will take about minutes one way.
I stopped by the smog station on my way back home to have it checked in the past. Do you think what shall I do differently based on our experience? I will bring it to the shop to check the engine coolant temperature next time. Appreciate your advice very much.
Once you are sure it's warming up properly the try to drive at least 10 minutes, at Take it for a longer run, say 20 miles one way at then shut it off, restart it and drive back and see if it runs.
Toyota's can be a bear to get this to run, so I try to do about double what the drive cycle is and see if it will run.
Just want to make sure it has to drive between for 10 minutes. Not 65 for 20 minutes? So minutes would be better. Then shut off the engine, restart and drive back the same way. In the latest standard edition, this definite allocation is no longer present for all of them. Non-continuous monitors are different for spark ignition cars gasoline engines and compression ignition cars diesel engines. Traditionally, the only monitor status was the status since the diagnostic trouble codes were cleared.
This readiness monitor status is mandatory for all OBD2 compliant vehicles. It will show the long term status after the check engine light was reset and the DTCs cleared. As the OBD2 has evolved, newer vehicles can now report emission monitor status also for the current driving cycle. These monitors start from the beginning every time when the monitoring cycle begins. Older cars might not support this feature.
Readiness monitor test result yields the monitor status. Each readiness monitor will have its own output status. The completion status can be:. Complete or ready meaning that the test has been completed. It means that the OBD-II system has checked this emissions control system and it has passed the test. OBD Auto Doctor indicates this by green check mark. Incomplete or not ready meaning the test is not completed.
It means that the OBD2 system has not been able to run this routine or it has failed. OBD Auto Doctor indicates this by red exclamation mark. Disabled meaning that the test has been disabled for the rest of this monitoring cycle. A monitor can be disabled when there is no easy way for the driver to operate the vehicle to allow the monitor to run.
For example, the ambient air temperature might be too low or too high. OBD Auto Doctor lists all the defined monitors in the software.
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